Monday, March 28, 2016



 The greater the difficulty the greater the glory
(Cicero, 106 – 43 BC)



We left St. Vincent quite early, around 6ish. The town was still asleep, only a few roosters were attempting to rouse people. We tied down George (our dinghy) and headed for the open sea and the 53 miles to St. Lucia, our resting place for the night.
Bye bye St.Vincent

God effect

B-e-a-utiful


 Rodney Bay, the main bay for boats in St. Lucia, is on the northwestern side of the island, making for a protected area for weary yachts people to take a well-deserved break. It was 30 miles across the channel between the two islands, and 20 up the St. Lucia coast. We set out, wishing great, green St. Vincent a warm farewell. Whilst waiting for Dad’s dental crown to be mailed from France, we moved north, up the coast of St. Vincent, and stopped in a small anchorage called Petit Byahaut.
The Headland of Petit Byahaut

Beautiful beach, with the remains of a tent camp.

Just stunning

To our back


 It was a tiny heaven, ensconced by two large headlands and surrounded by crystal clear waters; we tied a rope from our stern to a tree on shore and relaxed in paradise.
Little brother fixing the stern line for us to a tree

Swim!

I just love my life.



Tadaa


 Jabez and I swam ashore to a black sand beach and sat on the stove-like sand, trying not to roast ourselves on the fiery beach. After a while we decided to go check out a cave, a bay and a half away, known as… wait for it… The Bat Cave! So we took our dinghy, and our GoPro camera, and set off. Once at this so called Bat cave, we tied ol’ Georgie to a handy mooring and hopped into the water. Above the entrance were very interesting geological formations in the rock, like a kind of wavy pattern.
Into the depths we plunge

 Large underwater boulders guarded the entry to the passage way and it grew steadily darker as we progressed, swimming, deeper into the cave. Finally we were in the back of the cave and there was a squeaking and chirping noise above our heads that wasn’t quite deafening, but pretty darn close. At one point, I took my mask off to look up and got this wave of bat fertilizer. The only time I smelled something this bad was when I was at my grandparents in South Africa and their neighbors spread guano on their flowerbeds. We couldn’t open the windows for a week! Anyway, we saw the bats flying back and forth on the ceiling and then a pinprick of light to the left. We swam in that direction, trying not to get smashed against the narrow walls of the tunnel. After 3 meters, the bottom dropped down and all I could see was just an opening, of clear, deep blue water and the walls of the underwater tunnel going downward. We came out of the cave and into the ocean, then doubled back to the dinghy again. I think it was more fun swimming there than back. If you stop in St. Vincent, do yourself a favor, swim through the bat cave, and enjoy it, but don’t disturb the bats!

Back to our passage from St. Vincent to Martinique….

The funny thing is just about every short passage we do, once we set out, I get really tired. Dad says it’s a side effect of being seasick, but I don’t get seasick anymore. HA!! Take that, person who decided people should get seasick. (I don’t know who you are, but I will look for you, I will find you and I will slap you in the face!) Well, I was kind of in limbo between sleep and not sleep and at one point heard Dad calling Mom shouting, “whale, whale!” But I really couldn’t be bothered to haul myself out of the lovely soft bed. Too bad for me, because it wasn’t a whale, it was a massive turtle as big as our cockpit. For those of you who don’t know, that is freaky big. Later, I researched the largest species of turtle and found out it is the Leatherback turtle, genus Dermochelys Coriacea, named that because it doesn’t have a bony shell, instead it is covered by skin and oily flesh, that has hardened to form a kind of shell-ish. Eww. Oh well. After an hour or so I kicked my butt out of bed (well, who else was going to do it?) and went outside.

On our way, St. Lucia in the distance.

The Grand Pitons

Piton Anse





 I took the steering wheel and sailed the boat until we were within 2 miles of the Grand Pitons, sailing the channel between St. Vincent and St. Lucia. Majestic peaks soaring into the clouds, green rainforests covering much of the island, I can understand why it is one of the most visited islands for tourists, but it always seemed a bit bland to me. I don’t know why, just a feeling. We pulled into Rodney Bay and had the hook down, holding fast and the grill going before 5 o clock. After a dinner of chicken on the grill and couscous we hit the sack. Once again we rose early after a decent night’s sleep and started up the last 20 miles to Martinique. Jabez started hand steering for the first 5 miles or so,
Yeah, thats right pretty boy, smile.

Arr Captain!


 while I went downstairs and took an half an hour nap. After that refreshing reposo I took the wheel and set a record on the speed for that trip, 7.8 knots and nobody topped it.
Although there are times when I dont like to be wakened 
Really beating into it.
Nicely heeled over
Its not all smooth sailing in light winds!
 We were sailing about 60 degrees off the wind, and gaining nice headway. At about 13 miles to go, everyone was outside in the cockpit, and I was steering, when Dad said, “Look, look!” I turned to look off the bow, and saw this massive splash 200 meters off. I was a bit disappointed, but then it breached again, clear out of the water! A pilot whale, we determined, though not a huge one, but still, not something you see every day, and not something you forget easily.

We arrived in St. Anne, Martinique, after 3 or 4 hours of good sailing, and dropped the anchor. Jabez and I donned our swim gear and snorkels, and Dad handed us some cable ties to mark the chain. You know, it’s really kinda hard to pull yourself foot by foot, 4 meters down in the water having to come up every 40 seconds or so to breathe. Later in the day Mom and Dad took Bear Necessities, our optimist sailing dinghy, to shore to clear us into France. They returned loaded down with the bountiful yumminess that was two fresh baguettes, creamy brie and goat cheese, cold salamis, and a pot of pate de vollaile. This is Anneleize signing off for now.
Viva la vida loca




 

Wednesday, March 9, 2016

1.BACK ABOARD ABRACADABRA AFTER HIATUS

  We were welcomed back to ‘Abracadabra’ with a balmy tropical breeze and enough humidity to sprout some beans. Nothing like a warm, moist blanket to wrap ourselves in upon arrival! Tom, from the boat ‘Pontea’, came in the dark to pick us up, with all our luggage, and take us to the boat.

2.  Tom’s dinghy is an 11 foot, canoe shaped, wooden boat. There are three pieces of wood, slats, as seats and with a 3 horse power engine, that at full speed, would be as fast as an old person on crutches. With each person getting on, the boat rocks. He had the sailing dinghy from ‘Island Swift’ in tow, and with careful and slow driving, (as if there were an alternative) it was able to safely bring the bags without getting swamped, while we 4, plus Tom, rode in his dinghy.

3.  We had not met Tom before that night, as our friends on ‘Island Swift’ arranged that Tom would pick us up. And that is one of the most beautiful things to experience, in this lifestyle we choose. A person you have never met, coming in the dark, to take you and your family, plus 4 back packs, 3 computer bags, and 2 duffel bags to your boat and drop you off. Just because.

4.  Because you never know when it might be you standing there, with your family, or it might be you, out there on the ocean, in need of help. If you have never lived on a boat, or experienced the community that exists in the sailing world, you may not comprehend the depth of a simple act of selfless kindness.

5.  With all our luggage, Tom deposited us on our boat at 10 o’clock at night, and we opened the hatches, and let that warm tropical night waft through our home.

6.  Jo Jo and Simon, from ‘Island Swift’ left us a 5 liter bottle of water, and a bag of food to get us through until we could launch our dinghy and get to the shops. This care package consisted of : a loaf of fresh bread, a dozen eggs, a bag of muesli, a box of long life milk, 2 cans of local beer, and a bar of 70% Grenada dark chocolate. It was not a small gesture either, as the captain and crew of ‘Island Swift’ have a sailing dinghy to do all their provisioning and they must sail or row the distance it takes us 5 to 10 minutes with an engine.


Jo Jo and Simon from Island Swift, in their rowing/sailing dinghy

The next two weeks were taken up with scraping all the lines tying us to the mangroves. In the time we were gone, barnacles, little mussels, small oysters and plenty of sea grass had taken over the lines and the anchor chain. Anneleize in the optimist, ‘Bear Necessities’ and Jabez standing in the mangroves, took scrapers to the lines to chip, hack, and scrub their way back to something that resembles usable lines again. We won’t talk about the way they smell just yet.



The bottom of the boat was equally covered with its own aquarium, including areas of thick, tough barnacles, requiring the ice scrapers for car windshields to get the job completed. With the amount of growth on the hull, keel and chain, we would not have been able to sail with any speed, much less use the propeller to get us out of the mangroves. The barnacles are especially fond of the bronze propeller, but Jabez covered it with a plastic bag before leaving the boat, and so the growth on the propeller was minimal.


2Meanwhile, top sides, we had an infestation of mud wasp nests. The next generation had already come and gone, leaving behind little dirt cocoons with a larvae or two, spent and all dried up. The wasps made their nests on books, inside cupboards and hats, on curtains, and even one little mud parcel on the lens of a pair of reading glasses!
A fine mixture of sand and mud, with dried up cocoons




3.  During this cleaning process we were ready to launch our dinghy, in order for us to be able to get off the boat, and to get food, water and fuel. It’s also important to have transportation in case we wanted to socialize with any friends.
4.  We had two scratches on the port pontoon of the dinghy that needed patching and Philip remembered he bought hyperlon patches for this occasion when we were in the Canary islands last year this time. Perhaps you have experienced putting something somewhere and when you want it, you are not able to find it? This is a standing joke on boats because there are many small areas, lockers, underneath floorboards, and pockets of space that get used to keep all the food, clothing, spare parts, extra batteries, wet weather gear, snorkeling gear, and on and on, the list is not endless. As you have limited space in a  house, so you have limited space on a boat, incrementally so.
5.  And so now began the search for the Canary island patches. We looked, we rifled, we combed through all lockers, floorboards, quick stash places, we racked our brains trying to remember that specific day, what we did, what Philip was wearing, if he put them in a carry bag, with the diving equipment, with his tools, in a jacket pocket. There was even a reward put out for anyone finding the patches. And then we had a day of only searching for the elusive Canary Island patches, a total of 12 man hours put into this endeavor. Alas, t’was not to be.
 We used other patches, two of them, that made the job less than ideal. But at least we had a floating dinghy.

  Next came the outboard engine that needed to be carried from the bunk inside the boat, outside and carefully pulleyed down and placed in the dinghy. Because of good preparation by Philip and Jabez, for the outboard to sit for a long time without use, and with the fuel tank installed, the 15hp engine started right up with the first pull.

 With mobility comes provisioning, water, fuel and finding a washing machine. Once a week a woman brought local produce and eggs to Secret Harbor, which was a 10 minute dinghy ride away, and for heavier provisioning, there was a bus from Secret Harbor to the supermarket. This process got us started in filling the boat up and stocking the lockers. Secret Harbor also had water and fuel, so with each trip a 25 liter jerry can was filled with water, and the dinghy fuel tank was kept topped up.



 With all this amount of work, there needs to be the balance of play and Anneleize and Jabez took turns jumping off the spinnaker pole with their friend Lochi. We managed to get Christmas and New Year’s squeezed in there as well.

          And as we were nicely tucked into the mangroves, we did have excellent front row seats to watch and listen to what must have been a Green  Heron.  There was nothing green about him, with a rusty colored head, grey wings and tail feathers, and a beak that is much more like a kingfisher than a heron. They are a bit stumpy looking, but sitting on one of the lines tied to the mangroves, one would watch the water, quietly, patiently, and then all of a sudden, his or her neck would stretch out like a giraffe’s!!! And without moving from his place, without getting in the water, there would be some breakfast in the beak.


            There were also brief sightings of the Little Blue Heron and, my favorite, the Antillean Crested Hummingbird.





Driving North

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